2011年10月12日星期三

LED Spotlights E14 4W 320 Lumens

LED Spotlights Manufacturers MCOB Technology - Advantages

LED Spotlights Using A Surface Light Emitting ( Multi Chips & Cups on Board ) MCOB LEDs

Chips in the Optical CUPS The Light of LED is form tae Chip itself,which means we need

  • High lumens efficacy: Up to 110 Lm/W for whole lamp
  • Patent technology: MCOB ( Multi Chips & Cups on Board ) assembly mode
  • High voltage resistance up to 4500 V
  • With intellectual property rights
  • Good light consistency: ± 150 K
  • A highly efficient, long lasting, environmentally friendly, and inherently digital source of illumination - reinventing light itself as a highly controllable medium.
  • Wide voltage design from 85-265 Volts AC,LED Light Spotlights it is universal applied in all countries.
  • No UV or RF interference,patented heat sink and optical diffuser.

LED Spotlights MCOB Design : Low thermal resistance allows more light output at the same current fewer LEDs achieve the same level of light intensity,LEDs run cooler and longer.

led spotlights mr16

LED Spotlights MR16 4W 320 Lumens


Using a Multiple Cups / Chip on Board LED Modules
led spotlights e27

LED Spotlights E27 4W 320 Lumens


Using a Multiple Cups / Chip on Board LED Modules
led spotlights e14

LED Spotlights E14 4W 320 Lumens


Using a Multiple Cups / Chip on Board LED Modules

LED Light Candles 3W

LED Light Candles Manufacturers MCOB Technology

LED Light Candles using a ( Multiple Chips & Cups on Board ) LEDs assembly mode; Very low thermal impedance; Excellent durability and stanbility at high temperature.


  • LED light Candles
  • Item No. : AL-MYX-CLM-E14
  • Input Voltage : AC 180 ~ 240V
  • Line Frequency : 50-60HZ
  • Rated Power : 3W/H
  • Light Source : MCOB Modules (Multiple Cups & Chips on Board LED)
  • Color Temperature :
    Warm White:2700K-3300K
    Cool White:5500K-6000k
  • Luminous Efficiency for whole lamp :
    3W : 240LM-270LM (Cool White)
  • Lifespan : >30,000 hrs

  • Replacement for :
  • 3W = 30W incandescent lamps = 14W fluorescent lamps
  • Usage : Interior Lighting
  • Working temperature : -30°C~ +45°C
  • Size : 36 × 147mm
  • Gross Weight : 35g

  • Description :
  • 1. High luminous efficiency and super energy-saving compared to conventional
  • 2. No RF Interference, No buzzing Noise
  • 3. No fluorescent flickering
  • 4 .No hazard of mercury or lead entering the environment
  • 5 .No danger of broken glass
  • 6. Maintenance free, easy installation
  • 7. Low power consumption, high intensity
  • 8. Solid-State, High shock/vibration resistant, No thermal radiation
new led Light Candles 4w

LED Light Candles 3W


Using a Multiple Cups / Chip on Board LED Modules
led light bulbs LK 7w 630Luminous

LED Light Candles


Using a Multiple Cups / Chip on Board LED Modules
led light bulbs LK 9w 810Luminous

LED Light Candles 3W


Using a Multiple Cups / Chip on Board LED Modules

2011年8月8日星期一

Fitting Downlights

Question: How many Downlights do I want? Or need?

Answer


This very much comes down to personal preference. Personally I prefer to fit more than is required, and then divide then up onto different switches. This will create different lighting effects. For example if you are putting the downlights into a kitchen you could have the downlights that are placed over the worktops on one switch and the other downlights that are illuminating the rest of the kitchen on another switch possibly a dimmer. This then means that you have good task lighting where needed and controllable mood lighting elsewhere.

However there are still some important factors to remember.

Without having any technical information about your particular room, use the following "Rule of Thumb". This best describes a kitchen, but can be adjusted for any room in your house.

Firstly make sure the Downlights that are going to be closest to your walls are no more than 600mm into the room. The reason for this is that 600mm is the standard measurement for the depth of your floor cupboards. This will mean that once the Downlights are fitted, no shadows will be created over the area that you are working.

You should now work out the position of the other lights by spacing them at intervals of between 900mm and 1200mm. From these figures you should now be able to calculate how many fitting will be in a row and how many rows you will need.

Question: Should the Downlights be 12v or 230v?

Answer


This has been a long standing debate with no particular winner. I hope the below information helps.

Low voltage (LV or 12v) downlights are wired to a transformer, which is then wired to the mains supply. Although the transformer wastes approximately 10% of the power through stepping down the voltage to 12v this is more than compensated by the improved performance of low voltage downlights.

Due to a thicker filament, the halogen 12v bulbs (size MR16) are more efficient than the halogen 230v (size GU10) equivalent. The thicker filament also means that the bulbs are more robust.

Another advantage of 12v is that low voltage bulbs use halogen gas, which provides a much whiter and brighter light with higher clarity than the more traditional mains voltage incandescent bulbs.

Mains voltage downlights are wired directly to the mains without the need for a transformer.

The mains voltage (230v) downlights are generally cheaper, and can be simpler to install, as there is no need to install a transformer.

As an electrician I would advise my customers to use 12v Downlights in Kitchens and bathrooms where you generally need more light, but can be reduced using low wattage bulbs or dimmer switches if needed. The use of 230v Downlights in other areas would then be perfectly acceptable.

Question: Do the Downlights need to be fire rated, acoustic rated or IP Rated?

Answer


Ceilings provide an important barrier that helps to prevent the spread of fire and noise between the floors of a building. Installing recessed downlights punctures this barrier and can reduce the effectiveness of this safety barrier.

Installing fire rated downlights helps to protect your premises from the effects of both fire and noise pollution and aids compliance with new building regulations governing the installation of downlights. Made from intumescent materials, fire rated downlights seal the gap between the ceiling and the fitting to offer up to 90 minutes protection against the spread of fire into the void spaces within your ceiling / loft space.

Fire rated downlights are more expensive than non-fire rated downlights. However, the worst decision you can make is to buy cheaper models that look exactly the same only to find out from the electrician fitting them, that building regulations require fire rated downlights for that situation. Then fire hoods will have to be bought and you would now find that you have spent more money in the long run.

Personally I feel it is best to always go for the safest lights on the market. Fires cost lives, surely that is worth a few pence more to fit fire rated downlights.

Having the right IP rated downlights is also a very important factor. Please see "What is IP Zoning" to see whether you will need an IP rated downlight. Water and electricity do not mix. Again IP rated downlights cost a fraction more but by paying a little extra you could save yourself from being electrocuted, or causing the contacts in the fitting to corrode. This could lead to a short circuit and possibly a fire.

Question: Can I do the work myself or should I get an electrician in?

Answer


Firstly you should read " Part P - What is it? " as this will answer whether or not you can legally carry out the work you wish to do. Some people will always have a go, no matter what their level of competence is.

Electricity is dangerous and could kill you. I will always suggest to get an electrician in to do the work required, but if you are determined to do some electrics yourself please remember to be safe at all times and follow some basic safe isolation procedures before proceeding:

  • Locate / positively identify correct isolation point or device
  • Check condition of voltage indication device
  • Confirm that voltage indication device is functioning correctly
  • Switch off installation / circuit to be isolated
  • Verify with voltage indicating device that no voltage is present
  • Re-confirm that voltage indicating device functions correctly on known supply / proving unit
  • Lock-off or otherwise secure device used to isolate installation / circuit
  • Post warning notice(s)

Question: What is the best process from start to finish for actually fitting the Downlights?

Answer


  • Decide where you wish to place your chosen downlights measuring out the ceiling and marking the central point of the light. Now drill a small pilot hole through the ceiling.
  • Now you have marked out the positions of the downlights it is a good idea to check above the ceiling to ensure that there are no joists / wires / pipes in the way. You should be able to see a small pinprick of light coming through the ceiling where you drilled the pilot holes. If you are unable to view the ceiling from above it gets trickier. The best way is to determine which way the joists run and what the spacing of them are. You could then use an old wire coat hanger bent at a 900 angle to the width of the downlight. Insert the wire through the hole until the 900 bend is through. Now twist the wire a full 3600 and hopefully it will not bump into any obstructions.
  • In the instructions or on the box of the downlights it will say what the cut-out for that downlight will be. For the best results I will generally use a hole saw (a type of drill bit) to the correct size of the downlight which can be purchased very cheaply from most DIY stores. Alternatively the use of a plasterboard saw (Pad Saw) can be used which eliminates the need for a drill and hole saw. For this method you will need to draw a circle on the ceiling to the correct size as a guide for when you start to saw.
  • Hopefully now you have produced a clean cut hole in the ceiling, got the plaster out of your eyes and shaken yourself outside to stop you looking like Casper the ghost!
  • Once the wiring has been pulled through the hole the downlight can be wired. To fit the downlight into the hole hold the two springs back against the sides of the downlighter and push up into the hole. The springs then lie flat on the top of the ceiling holding it in place

Question: Do I need any special tools?

Answer


This all depends on what you have in your tool box already! Please see the below list of what tools I have used in the past for fitting downlights. Some of them you might not need but can often prove useful.
  • Chalk line
  • Tape measure
  • Pencil
  • Pad saw
  • Hand drill
  • Hole saw (type of drill bit)
  • Small drill bit for pilot hole
  • Screw drivers

Question: Can the existing lighting circuit support the extra light fittings?

Answer


Lighting circuits are usually on 6 amp circuit breakers often know as MCB’s (Miniature Circuit Breakers). To calculate how many Amps are loaded onto the lighting circuit a simple calculation is made. UK voltage is 230 volts, now assume that each light on the circuit is 100 watts, and you have got 12 lights on the circuit.

The calculation would be:

Total Watts ÷ Voltage = Amps

So taking the above information the calculation would be:

1200 watts ÷ 230 volts = 5.22 amps

So now we can see that the above described lighting circuit is using 5.22 amps meaning that the circuit breaker of 6 amps is not being overloaded.

Now to confuse things a little but very helpful on lighting circuits when you are wishing to add more lights. On lighting circuits once you have worked out the amps you can now apply a thing called Diversity, which for lighting circuits is 66% of the total load. So to work out this calculation we can do the following sum:

5.22amps ÷ 100 × 66 = 3.45 amps

So now we can see that we are able to add more lights to the circuit now that diversity has been applied to it.

Remember to carry out your calculations before you start any work!

Source:

LED Technology Luminous intensity

LEDs are light emitting opto-electronic semiconductor components. Since decades, they are used in the field of man-machine communication to convert electrical signals into visual information.

Typical LED applications encompass household appliances, telecommunications, life sciences and signal technologies. Moreover, due to its low power consumption and excellent operational reliability LED technology partly replaces conventional lighting solutions already today.

The development of LED technology progresses at rapid pace, as light efficiency (Lumen/Watt) increases, colour qualities improve and temperature ranges get manageable. Consequentially, new territories of applications will open up, especially in the field of standard lighting.

Based on their structure, LEDs can be split into quattuor groups:

Light Technology

Light technology LED light modules of up to 350 mm Φ.

Illuminance Ev

Illuminance Ev is defined as the areal light flux density on a lighted area hit by the luminous flux Fv. Illuminance is measured in lux (lx=lm/m2), where luminous flux and area are put in as [lm] and [m2], respectively. Based on the illuminance Ev, a specific lighting solution can be calculated and designed.

Luminance Lv

Luminance is defined as the areal density of luminous intensity of a light emitting or reflecting area which radiates the luminous intensity Iv at a given angle. Luminance Lv is measured in [cd/m2].

Luminous intensity Iv

Luminous intensity Iv [cd] is among the key parameters describing an LED or LED display. It is defined as the luminous flux emanating from a point source within a solid angle W (steradian) into a particular direction. Hence, luminous intensity is the directional luminous flux Fv within a solid angle W. Today's LEDs achieve a luminous intensity of Iv=10 cd or more. As intensity depends on the radiation angle, an LED chip equipped with a 30° reflector achieves a higher luminous intensity than an identical LED chip with a 60° reflector. That is, using a 60° reflector the same luminous flux Fv has to illuminate a larger area than using a 30° reflector.

In addition to these parameters, VS Optolelectronic's in-house photometric laboratory is equipped to analyse all photometric, colorimetric and radiometric characteristics. Two in-house Gonio spectrum radiometers exactly determine the radiation characteristics of LEDs and


Source: http://www.ledaladdin.hk/led_technology/led_lighting_technology.html

How to install led light tube t8 t10 retrofit tubes

Step 1. Unpack the product:

  • Unpack and carefully examine the product from top to bottom.
  • Report any damage and save all packing materials, if any part was damaged during transport.
  • Do not attempt to use this product, if it is damaged.

Step 2. Planning the installation:

  • This device installation requires planning to ensure
  • successful installation with minimal complications and down time.

Step 3. User responsibilities:

  • It is the responsibility of the contractor, installer, purchaser,
  • owner, and user to install, maintain, and operate the device in such a manner as to comply with
  • all state and local laws, ordinances, and regulations.

Step 4. Product installation steps:

  • Disconnect power to fixture at source. DO NOT SIMPLY SWITCH OFF FIXTURE
  • Remove existing fluorescent tubes and safely set aside.
  • Disconnect (cut) wires to ballast leaving enough wire to be tied off with wire nuts.
  • Tie-off remaining wires attached to ballast with wire nuts.
  • See wiring diagram shown on reverse for your type lamp fixture (i.e., 1-bulb, 2-bulb, 4-bulb and etc.) and re-wire fixture.
  • Install Aladdin LED Retrofit Tube(s) into fixture.
  • Affix included warning labels to fixtures near lamp connection/sockets of fixture so they are visible to bulb installers.
  • Re-connect power supply and turn on switch. Tube will light.
Risk of fire or electric shock. Install the LEDaladdin T8 T10 retrofit LED tube(s) only in luminaires that have the construction features and dimensions shown in the photographs and/or drawings shown on reverse of this sheet.

Caution:

  • Please read and follow these instructions before installation.
  • Install the tube by qualified electrician and technican.
  • Consult the competent electrician if you have any uncertainty about the installation or the use of the product.
  • Do not impact the tube and all its components by any external weight or mechanical force.
  • Do not use harp tools near or on the surace of the tube.
  • Hands must be dry during installation.
  • Switch off the power before installation.
  • Make sure the base is mounted on a stable. even and secure surface.
  • Beware of electic shock when replacing tube.
  • Use or store the tubes in dry places. if the tube are used for outdoor application. waterproof holders and covers are needed.
  • Replace the tube immediately if you find any leakage or damage on the tube.
  • Stop use and replace if the product becomes dim,out of order or begins to blink.
  • Of failure occurs do not attempt to repair product.
  • This is not a dimmable product . do not use with dimmers.

Warning

  • NOTE: This user guide is intended to be used as a reference only. Installation should be done by a fully qualified
  • electrician or technician. This document should never be considered as a substitute for any provision of a regulation or
  • state and/or local code. Please read the entire user guide to fully understand and safely use this product.

LED Light Tube T8 T10 Installation:

1/. Without Ballast and starter

  • Directly connect the wires as shown in diagram I. join either A or B, or A & B together with the "Live" wire. join either C or D, or C & D together with the "Neutral" wire.
  • Install the t8 LED tube on the bracket.

2/. With Electronic Ballast

  • Take off the fluorescent tube.
  • Cut the wire as shown on the dotted line of the diagram(2b).
  • Bypass the ballast and remove the starter (if any) within the bracket.
  • Reconnect the wires sa shown. join either A or B, or A & B together with the "Live" wire. join either C or D, or C & D together with the "Neutral" wire.
  • Install the T8 LED Tube on the Bracket.

LED TUBE T8 RETRORIT WIRING INSTRUCTION DIAGRAMS

(See detailed written instuctions reverse side)

BEFORE INSTALLATION:






ARTER NEW INSTALLATION:






LED Tube Light T5 Installation

  • Disconnect the power before installation to ensure that outside.
  • The installation as shown below: install two clips, T5 Fixture clamping directly on the clip connecting T5 Fixture.
  • Plug the power cord can be connected to electricity.
  • To replace the lamp, the lamp will be rotated 90° to take off or install up, pay attention to T5 lamp, the negative electrode must correspond to Support the positive and negative.
 

2011年8月4日星期四

Святло труб Святлодыёдныя лямпы вытворцаў Святлодыёдныя фары трубкі Святлодыёдныя вытворцы асвятлення ў Кітаі

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Святло труб
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Святлодыёдныя вытворцы асвятлення ў Кітаі
Святлодыёдныя фары лямпа
Святлодыёдныя лямпы завод


Кітай святлодыёднага асвятлення завода
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LED lampar birgir í Kína Led assenmbly LED lampar lýsing LED ljósaperur

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2011年8月3日星期三

Producenci oświetlenia LED Fabryka oświetlenia LED Żarówki LED oświetlenie Dostawca oświetlenia LED Lampy LED

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تولید چراغ روشنایی چراغ روشنایی کارخانه لامپ های روشنایی چراغ به رهبری نور لوله


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قدرت بالا به رهبری چراغ های برق
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نور لامپ چراغ

2011年8月2日星期二

china LED-beligting fabriek LED data China LED vervaardigers

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2011年8月1日星期一

Locating Lights, Transforwers,Materials And Dccessories Required

Show Typical Switched Wiring Circuits For A Lighting Installation


Whichever type of fitting you intend to use, draw a scale floor plan of the room, clearly mark where items are and where you wish relevant lights to be. When you have completed your plan, mark the ceiling / wall with the centre position of the fitting, making sure you mark the position of cutouts, before cutting or drilling, ensuring there are no obstructions, cable or pipes behind. Fitting lights on the ground floor may require you to have access to the floor above so ensure floorboards can be accessed.

If installing recessed down lights ensure there is enough clearance in the ceiling void, you will find minimum distances stated in the supplied instructions. Ensure the integrity of any fire barrier is maintained especially where there is a dwelling above the site of the fitting(s).



FIG. 6 show typical switched wiring circuits for a lighting installation.


alternatively you can use the existing 230V supply from the loop-in terminals of a ceiling rose supplying existing 230V lighting. Always read the light fittings instructions before attempting any work and if in doubt, consult a qualified electrician. Lighting circuits are usually controlled from a 5amp fuse at the main board and most new installations require this to be protected by an RCD operating at 30mA. In a two-storey house there are usually two lighting circuits, one for each floor.

Using the above information, you should now be able to calculate the amount of cable and where any switches should go. NOTE: always allow extra cable as it is easier to trim back than to add. This will also give you some flexibility if you have to adjust the positioning of a fitting.

Fitting Lights And Electrical Connections


Installing a light fitting is straightforward but at this stage don't fit lamps into their housings. Once all the cabling is in place you can then fix any brackets using suitable fixings ( taking care not to drill or screw through any cables ). Ensure all terminations are secure and comply with the Wiring Regulations that your light fitting complies with BS EN 60598, the British Standard for light fittings.

NOTE: Fittings classed as Double Insulated ( Class II ) or SELV ( Class III ) do not require an earth and fitting instructions should be followed. TIP: When using multiple lamp fittings, or when low voltage fittings are supplied via a transformer, a bulb / lamp reaches the end of its life; it is good practice, to replace as soon as possible. Failure to do so may cause 'overvolting' of the other bulbs / lamps and could reduce their lifespan by up to 50%. Always ensure that the bulbs / lamps are sufficiently cool before replacing.

Detection Of Motion


with the European Standard for luminaries (BS EN 60598) and carry a CE mark. Depending on where the light fitting is to be sited will determine the degree of protection the product will need against ingress of moisture. This is known as an IP rating i.e. IP44. Simply put, the first number of an IP rating (0-6) is the degree of protection against debris, dust and even 'little fingers' getting in. The second number (0-8) is its resistance to moisture. IP68 is the highest degree of protection offered against dust, solid objects & moisture.

Outdoor Light Of Materials And Dccessories Required


Outdoor light fittings will require some maintenance, so choose one made from a material suitable for the local environmental conditions i.e. if you live near to the sea, select a plastic or marine grade stainless steel product that will require minimal cleaning and is not prone to corrosion. Always check manufacturer's zcare instructions.

Having decided, what, where, how you wish to light and how many different moods you want to create, make a plan of your garden, identifying lengths, quantities of materials and accessories required. These may include switches, P.I.R. sensors, conduit, armoured cable (above 50V), an RCD, fixings, weatherproof junctions boxes, cable joints, glands etc.

NOTE: Outdoor Fittings operating under 50V can use conduit to protect the cable. Fittings operating above 50V must use armoured cable and be protected by a RCD, with a residual operating current not exceeding 30mA.

Once you have selected your fittings and accessories, using your plan, physically mark out the areas in your garden where the lighting is to be sited and the cable is to be run. Prepare the ground for the cables by digging channels - for cables operating at above 50V or where the ground is likely to be disturbed, the trench must be at least 500mm deep.

The cable route should be marked with yellow and black tape. It should be just 150mm below the surface, above buried cable; this is to warn persons excavating the ground in the future that a cable is present. It is also a good idea to keep a garden plan showing all cable routes and depths for future reference.

NOTE: When laying cable, always leave an extra length for any last minute adjustments; it is easier to reduce the length than it is to add. Don't back fill until you have completed, tested and are happy with the positioning of the system.

When installing recessed ground lighting in a drive or pathway, you should provide suitable drainage; bedding the base of the fitting onto gravel can easily do this.

Once all the cabling is in place and you are happy with the location of the fittings, make sure the securing method is suitable for the size and weight of the fitting, the surface to which it is to be fixed and its exposure to the elements. When all this is done, connect the supply cable, re-check all connections and fit bulbs / lights. Only when you are happy with the installation and it has been checked, can an 'Authorised Competent Person' connect the mains power supply. Switch on and test. Back fill any trenches and make good.

Even the best garden lighting designers don't always get it right first time. If this happens to you, it may just be a case of a little adjustment or even some trial and error but it's worth persevering. You can easily add a new circuit or more lights if necessary.

NOTE: Always keep your garden lighting plans for future reference.

All outdoor electrical work must conform to BS 7671 the current IEE wiring regulations, and Part P of Building Regulations, you are advised to check with your local authorities Building Control Department, or an Authorised Competent Person, before starting. If in any doubt about electrical work, contact a qualified person.

Color Temperature (K) & Color Rendering (CRI)

What is Color Rendering Index (CRI)?
Color rendering describes how a light source makes the color of an object appear to human eyes and how well subtle variations in color shades are revealed. The Color Rendering Index (CRI) is a scale from 0 to 100 percent indicating how accurate a "given" light source is at rendering color when compared to a "reference" light source.
The higher the CRI, the better the color rendering ability. Light sources with a CRI of 85 to 90 are considered good at color rendering. Light sources with a CRI of 90 or higher are excellent at color rendering and should be used for tasks requiring the most accurate color discrimination.
It is important to note that CRI is independent of color temperature (see discussion of color temperature). Examples: A 2700K ("warm") color temperature incandescent light source has a CRI of 100. One 5000K ("daylight") color temperature fluorescent light source has a CRI of 75 and another with the same color temperature has a CRI of 90.
To further understand the physics of color rendering, we need to look at spectral power distribution.

The visible part of the electromagnetic spectrum is composed of radiation with wavelengths from approximately 400 to 750 nanometers. The blue part of the visible spectrum is the shorter wavelength and the red part is the longer wavelength with all color gradations in between.
Visible Spectrum
Spectral power distribution graphs show the relative power of wavelengths across the visible spectrum for a given light source. These graphs also reveal the ability of a light source to render all, or, selected colors.
Below see how a typical spectral power distribution graph for daylight.
Daylight Spectral Power Distribution
Notice the strong presence (high relative power) of ALL wavelengths (or the "full color spectrum"). Daylight provides the highest level of color rendering across the spectrum.
Compare the daylight spectral power distribution with that for a particular fluorescent lamp.
Daylight Spectral Power Distribution
The most obvious difference is the generally lower level of relative power compared to daylight - - except for a few spikes. All wavelengths (the "full spectrum) are again present but only certain wavelengths (the spikes) are strongly present. These spikes indicate which parts of the color spectrum will be emphasized in the rendering of color for objects illuminated by the light source. This lamp has a 3000K color temperature and a CRI of 82. It produces a light that is perceived as "warmer" than daylight (3000K vs. 5000K). It's ability to render color across the spectrum is not bad, but certainly much worse than daylight. Notice the deep troughs where the curve almost reaches zero relative power at certain wavelengths.
Here is another fluorescent lamp.
Daylight Spectral Power Distribution
This spectral power distribution looks generally similar to the one above except it shows more power at the blue end of the spectrum and less at the red end. Also, there are no low points in the curve that come close to zero power. This lamp has a 5000K color temperature and a CRI of 98. It produces light that is perceived as bluish white (similar to daylight) and it does an excellent job of rendering colors across the spectrum.
Above are links to linear and compact fluorescent light bulbs from Topbulb that have a CRI of 90 or higher. If you want a high color rendering bulb to produce light perceived as warm white, choose a bulb with a color temperature of 3000K or 3500K. If you want a high color rendering bulb to produce light perceived as white, choose a bulb with a color temperature of 4000K. For a bulb that simulates daylight, choose a color temperature of 5000K or higher.
Note: all incandescent and halogen light bulbs, by definition, have a CRI close to 100. They are excellent at rendering color. However, except for some halogen bulbs, most incandescents produce a warm 2800K color temperature. The only way to achieve the bluish white appearance of daylight with incandescent bulbs is to use bulbs coated with neodymium. However, these bulbs have a CRI much lower than 90. They are not good for accurate color rendering across the spectrum.

Designs Of LEDs - The Semiconductor Crystal:

Silicium belongs to the most frequent elements of the earth's crust. It occurs however not purely, but as SiO2 (silicium dioxide or quartz)and must be converted by precipitation processes into pure silicium.


Lattice defects in this crystal disturb however the movement of the electrons and in such a way that the crystalline pure silicium must be “cleaned?by a fusion procedure (Zohnenschmelz or Czochralski process) and "pulled" into large single crystals. These crystals has a diameter of 10-20 cm and a length of up to 2 meters. So a purity can be achieved by one foreign atom on 10 to high 9 Siliciumatomen.


This pure crystal is cut now into thin disks, called Wafern. Wafer costs today approx. around 1000, - Eur. The DOPING crucial for LEDs (addition of additives) can be achieved either with pulling the crystal or with the Wafern by vaporizing with 1000°C with the foreign atoms or by the bombardment with ions of the additive in small accelerators.

Now the endowed Wafern are cut into some hundred small “chips? which exhibit a thickness of only approx. 250 µm. These tiny small and hardly with free eye visible pieces of semiconductor crystal are responsible for the light generation of our LED.


Light emitting diodes are used into many different designs.


Mainly however plastics and synthetic resin applications for the lens are used. In addition, glass or metal housings is used with bright LEDs. LEDs zum Einsatz.


The plastic body, which is formed like a lens and lies over the crystal, lowers the limit angle of the total reflexion and bundles, therefore increases the radiating power.


With stronger LEDs also glass lenses are used. Metal housings, mostly from aluminum, take over mainly the task of the heat dissipation, thus cooling.

1)Wired LEDs


The Wired LED is at present still the most well-known LEDs because this design was already used for a very long time in electronics. They were mostly used however only as control small lamps.


When the luminous efficiency of semiconductor crystals became better and better, the wired LEDs became generally accepted in the lighting industry. Several wired LED in summary, are found nowadays in LED SPOTS, LED tubes, LED modules and LED chains.


The advantage of wired LEDs exists in very favorable production in the small heat emission and that they can very simply soldered. The most usual models of wired LEDs are 3mm, 5mm and 10mm diameter.


The reflector tub in that semiconductor crystal is embedded, is also the short leg of a wired LED and also the MINUS - (cathode). A further distinguishing feature for the Minusseite of a Bedrahteten LED is an easy flattening of the plastic shroud on this side.


Wired LEDs are produced in all colors also in RGB (RED, GREEN, BLUE). Either with automatic color change or automatic dialable. The automatic dialcash possess 4 legs (pin).

2) SMD LEDs ( Surface Mounted Device )


SMD means in german: Oberflächen montierbares Bauelement oder Bauelement für die Oberflächenmontage.


SMD LEDs possess not as the wired LED small wire connections, caled pins, but by means of solderable mating surfaces are soldered directly on the printed circuit board. Who does not use a printed circuit board, can naturally also wire connections on the mating surfaces solder.


Several SMD LED in summary, find nowadays with LED SPOTS, LED tubes and LED modules application.


SMD LED are made in different sizes, shapes of the housing and light-current strengths. By the enormous luminosity of some SMD LED, with which usually 3 or 4 semiconductor crystals are embedded in a SMD LED, they are used as flashlight LED in mobile phones or very compact digital cameras. Also in the automobile industry SMD LED are used for turn signals, stop light or daily headlight. SMD LEDs are produced in all colors also in RGB (RED, GREEN, BLUE).

3) Superflux LEDs ( Spider LEDs )


One could see superflux LED (or Spider LED called) as advancement of the wired LED.


They possess a large reflected beam angle and send their light laminar and are therefore better suitable for surface lighting. The four contact contacts (pin) do not only make a better heat dissipation and thus a high life span possible, but they can be headed also separately.Spider LED contains up to 4 semiconductor crystals (chips).


These advantages make those for superflux LED a perfect multi-chip carrier with infinitely many ranges of application.


Superflux are used in LED bulbs, LED tubes, LED modules and ever more frequently in addition, in the autolighting industry.

Here we know them as Soffitten in many different sizes and colors. In the advertising industry they are used e.g. for signature lighting or dia. assemblies.


Superflux LEDs are used for turn signals, stop light or daily headlight. SMD LEDs are produced in all colors also in RGB (RED, GREEN, BLUE).

4) COB LEDs( Chip on Board ) Power LEDs


COB LEDs the semiconductor crystals is directly contacted at the plate.


The chip on board technology is clearly the innovativste range of the semiconductor technology. With this technology the individual LED chips with the assistance of fully automatic Bondern are set directly on a gilded printed circuit board. This special procedure is called “Bonding? Subsequently, contacting is made to the antipole by a gold or aluminum wire.


The COB technology makes chip densities possible of up to 70 Chips/cm2!!! and made possible as an enormous intensity with even annunciator and offers many ranges of application with boundless organization freedom infinitely in connection with differently substrates as e.g. flexible printed circuit boards and ceramics.


Durch Chip On Board Technik kann auch eine optimale Wärmeableitung erreicht werden, welches die Lebensdauer einer LED enorm beeinflusst.

By chip on board technology can be achieved also an optimal heat dissipation, which affects the life span an LED enormously. To the COB LEDs belongs nearly all power LED variants. Zu den COB LEDs gehören fast alle Power LED Varianten.

Lighting Metrics: Quantity, Quality, Efficiency

Because some 85% of human impressions are visual, proper quantity and quality of light are essential to optimum performance. The mission of lighting management is to provide the optimum quantity and quality of light to its users at the lowest operating cost.

Lighting metrics are used to understand and predict how a lighting system will operate. They deal with quantity of light (light output and light levels), quality of light (brightness and color), and fixture efficiency (electrical efficiency and how much light leaves the fixture).

QUANTITY OF LIGHT

Luminous Flux (Light Output). This is the quantity of light that leaves the lamp, measured in lumens (lm). Lamps are rated in both initial and mean lumens.

Initial lumens indicate how much light is produced once the lamp has stabilized; for fluorescent and high-intensity discharge (HID) lamps, this is typically 100 hours.

Mean lumens indicate the average light output over the lamp's rated life, which reflects the gradual deterioration of performance due to the rigors of continued operation; for fluorescent lamps, this is usually determined at 40% of rated life.

A number of factors affect a lamp's light output over time, including lamp lumen depreciation, the lamp's interaction with the ballast, supply voltage variations, dirt or dust on the lamp, and the ambient temperature in the fixture.

To avoid confusion, note that "lumen output" is a term also used to describe a fixture's light output, not just a lamp's. Even more factors can affect light output in this case, including the distribution characteristics of the fixture, fixture surface depreciation, and dirt and dust buildup.

Illuminance (Light Level). This is the amount of light measured on the workplane in the lighted space. The workplane an imaginary horizontal, tilted or vertical line where the most important tasks in the space are performed. Measured in footcandles (fc) (or lux in metric), light levels are either calculated or, in existing spaces, measured with a light meter. A footcandle is actually one lumen of light density per square foot; one lux is one lumen per square meter. Like lumens, footcandles can be produced as either initial or maintained quantities.

Initial footcandles indicates a light level after new lamps are installed.

Maintained footcandles indicates a light level after light loss factors are considered over a period of time. Light loss factors include those affecting light output (see above) and also room surface reflectances, room size/proportions, dirt and dust buildup. While light output may describe either the output of a light source or fixture, maintained footcandles always takes into account the efficiency of the fixture in transmitting light to the workplane.

The human eye is a sophisticated piece of machinery; it is able to adjust to a wide range of light levels, including about 10,000 footcandles on a sunny day to about 0.01 footcandles under full moonlight. However, optimum ranges of light levels have been established for various tasks so that those tasks are performed most efficiently (reading a magazine, for example, would be difficult under moonlight, while 10,000 footcandles would be excessive).

For more information, see Lighting Design Basics and Light Loss Factors.

QUALITY OF LIGHT

Luminance (Photometric Brightness). The light that we actually see, brightness can be measured as the light leaving a lamp, or the light reflecting from an object's surface. If not controlled, brightness can produce levels of glare that either impair or prevent a desired task being performed. Glare can be described as direct or reflected glare, which can then result in discomfort or disability.

Direct glare comes straight from the light source.

Reflected glare shows up on the task itself, such as a computer screen.

Discomfort glare does not prevent seeing makes it uncomfortable.

Disability glare prevents vision. A popular example is holding a glossy magazine at a certain angle; a veiling reflection results, impairing our reading of the page.

Color. The color quality of a lamp is revealed as its color temperature rating and Color Rendering Index (CRI) rating. For a detailed description of these metrics, see Color Metrics

FIXTURE EFFICIENCY

There are two ways to look at a light fixture's (luminaire's) efficiency; one indicates how well the lighting system transforms electrical input into useful light output, and the other indicates how well the fixture itself transmits light from the lamp(s) to the workplane.

Electrical Efficiency. Lighting systems require electrical input to work. This input is measured in watts (W), a measure of required electric power. A lighting system's rated input wattage, therefore, is the amount of power required for it to work at any given instant of time.

Lamp manufacturers publish nominal wattage ratings for their lamps; when fluorescent and HID lamps are operated as a system with a ballast, however, a new rated wattage will result, published by the ballast manufacturer. Ballast manufacturers publish up to three input wattage ratings. The ANSI number is the result of a standardized ANSI test of that given ballast manufacturer's ballast operating a given compatible lamp type (often called the "bench test" because the lamps and ballasts are operated bare on a bench). The next one or two are the manufacturer's ratings for tests in actual open and/or enclosed fixtures.

While the manufacturer's ratings can be considered more realistic (because the testing takes place closer to actual field conditions), the ANSI number should be used when comparing different ballasts because it reflects the results of a common, standardized test procedure.

Therefore, one way to compare the electrical efficiency of lamp-ballast systems is to determine a common light output level, then compare the input wattage for various systems.

A more popular way of achieving a comparison of the relative efficiencies of lighting systems is to use efficacy, expressed in lumens per watt (LPW or lm/W). To determine a system's efficacy, divide its lumen output by its rated input wattage.

When lighting professionals apply the results of efficiency to actual system operation (usually to determine the operating cost savings of a retrofit, they need to determine the amount of energy the lighting system consumes, not just its input wattage. To calculate the energy use of a lighting system, multiply input wattage (W) x time (hours of operation during a year).

Example for Lighting System:



Input Wattage100W
Lumen Output 10,000 lm
Efficacy 100 LPW 10,000 lm ÷ 100W
Hours of Operation3,120 h5 days/week x 12 hours/day x 52 weeks/year
Energy Use312,000 Wh100W x 3,120 hrs/year
Energy Use312kWh312,000 watt-hours (Wh) ÷ 1,000 = 312 kilowatt-hours (kWh)
Utility Charge/kWh$0.075
Energy Cost/Year$23.40312kWh x $0.075/kWh

LED Tube Light Installation Made Simple

Installing LED tube lights is a great way to save money on electricity and get potentially hazardous fluorescent lights out of your home or office. However, most LED tube lights on the market today can not just be directly installed in an existing fluorescent fixture. You will have to make some simple modifications to the fixture to properly install the bulbs. The good news is that installing an LED tube light in an existing fluorescent fixture is relatively simple. In addition, you should be able to buy fixtures especially designed for LED tube lights in the near future, and they should actually be cheaper than the equivalent fluorescent fixtures. This article will provide a brief overview explaining what you need to know in order to install the new energy-saving fluorescent tube lights in an existing fluorescent lighting fixture.

Fluorescent fixtures are designed to support a specific types and size of fluorescent tube. A fluorescent tube is incorporated into a fluorescent lighting system which consists of two or three main components:
(1) the fluorescent lamp (fluorescent bulb or tube),
(2) the ballast, and
(3) the starter system.
In addition, the system for a tube lamp includes a lamp holder and a switch. Depending on the particular fluorescent lighting system, the starter may be a replaceable component, a starter may not be required, or the starter function may be integrated into the ballast. The starting function may also rely on the physical design of the fixture. To retrofit a fluorescent light fixture to support an LED tube light, the ballast (and the starter if a separate one is present) must be disconnected.


Make sure that the LED replacement tube lights are the correct size for the fixture. Also, always remember that when servicing a fluorescent fixture or lamp for any reason, electrical power to the entire fixture should be disconnected. This is not always practical in situations where a large number of fixtures are controlled from the same power control (such as in open office areas). In these cases, insulating gloves and a nonmetallic ladder should be used if the fixtures must be serviced when power is present.

You will need a few simple tools, including a wire cutter and wire stripper (often incorporated into the same tool), a pair of pliers, a screwdriver, and a few wire nuts for reconnecting the wires once you have removed the ballast.

Once the old bulbs are removed from the lamp holders and the electricity to the fixture is turned off, you will probably have to remove the reflector that is located behind the bulbs and provides a housing for the wiring and ballast that lie behind it. Typically, it is fairly simple to remove the reflector or cover, but if it is not clear how to do this, you should consult the documentation from the fixture manufacturer.

If the fixture has an electronic ballast, you only need to remove that and then wire the power directly to the lamp holders, completing one circuit for each bulb. This is fairly simple, and typically you can use the existing wire in the fixture and then just add some wire nuts. If you have an older fixture with a magnetic ballast and starter, you will have to remove or open the starter and remove or short the magnetic ballast.

Depending on how much wire you have to work with, it is a good idea to leave long enough wires leading out of the ballast to be able to reconnect the ballast with wire nuts, if you should ever want to convert the fixture back to use for fluorescent bulbs or want to use the ballast somewhere else. Typically, the ballast will have two screws or bolts holding it in place in the fixture, and these can be removed using a screwdriver or pair of pliers, as appropriate. The ballast should be disposed of in accordance with local regulations as should the old fluorescent bulbs. Because the fluorescent bulbs contain a small amount of highly-toxic mercury, they should be treated as hazardous waste and disposed of accordingly.

Once the ballast (and starter, if one was present) have been removed and the wires reconnected to complete a circuit for each bulb, replace the reflector or cover over the wiring and the area where the ballast was located, and the LED tube lights can be inserted in the end sockets. Unlike fluorescent bulbs which do not have a top or bottom, an LED tube light will have an obvious top and bottom, with metallic heatsink located on the backside of the tube and the LEDs visible under a lens on the side that will be aimed towards the area to be illuminated. Place the cover back on the fixture (if there was one) and turn on the electricity. Turn on the switch and if you have done everything properly, you should have as good or better lighting using approximately half the electricity and lasting as long as 50,000 hours or more.

How To Install LED Downlights

Question: How many Downlights do I want? Or need?

Answer


This very much comes down to personal preference. Personally I prefer to fit more than is required, and then divide then up onto different switches. This will create different lighting effects. For example if you are putting the downlights into a kitchen you could have the downlights that are placed over the worktops on one switch and the other downlights that are illuminating the rest of the kitchen on another switch possibly a dimmer. This then means that you have good task lighting where needed and controllable mood lighting elsewhere.

However there are still some important factors to remember.

Without having any technical information about your particular room, use the following "Rule of Thumb". This best describes a kitchen, but can be adjusted for any room in your house.

Firstly make sure the Downlights that are going to be closest to your walls are no more than 600mm into the room. The reason for this is that 600mm is the standard measurement for the depth of your floor cupboards. This will mean that once the Downlights are fitted, no shadows will be created over the area that you are working.

You should now work out the position of the other lights by spacing them at intervals of between 900mm and 1200mm. From these figures you should now be able to calculate how many fitting will be in a row and how many rows you will need.

Question: Should the Downlights be 12v or 230v?

Answer


This has been a long standing debate with no particular winner. I hope the below information helps.

Low voltage (LV or 12v) downlights are wired to a transformer, which is then wired to the mains supply. Although the transformer wastes approximately 10% of the power through stepping down the voltage to 12v this is more than compensated by the improved performance of low voltage downlights.

Due to a thicker filament, the halogen 12v bulbs (size MR16) are more efficient than the halogen 230v (size GU10) equivalent. The thicker filament also means that the bulbs are more robust.

Another advantage of 12v is that low voltage bulbs use halogen gas, which provides a much whiter and brighter light with higher clarity than the more traditional mains voltage incandescent bulbs.

Mains voltage downlights are wired directly to the mains without the need for a transformer.

The mains voltage (230v) downlights are generally cheaper, and can be simpler to install, as there is no need to install a transformer.

As an electrician I would advise my customers to use 12v Downlights in Kitchens and bathrooms where you generally need more light, but can be reduced using low wattage bulbs or dimmer switches if needed. The use of 230v Downlights in other areas would then be perfectly acceptable.

Question: Do the Downlights need to be fire rated, acoustic rated or IP Rated?

Answer


Ceilings provide an important barrier that helps to prevent the spread of fire and noise between the floors of a building. Installing recessed downlights punctures this barrier and can reduce the effectiveness of this safety barrier.

Installing fire rated downlights helps to protect your premises from the effects of both fire and noise pollution and aids compliance with new building regulations governing the installation of downlights. Made from intumescent materials, fire rated downlights seal the gap between the ceiling and the fitting to offer up to 90 minutes protection against the spread of fire into the void spaces within your ceiling / loft space.

Fire rated downlights are more expensive than non-fire rated downlights. However, the worst decision you can make is to buy cheaper models that look exactly the same only to find out from the electrician fitting them, that building regulations require fire rated downlights for that situation. Then fire hoods will have to be bought and you would now find that you have spent more money in the long run.

Personally I feel it is best to always go for the safest lights on the market. Fires cost lives, surely that is worth a few pence more to fit fire rated downlights.

Having the right IP rated downlights is also a very important factor. Please see "What is IP Zoning" to see whether you will need an IP rated downlight. Water and electricity do not mix. Again IP rated downlights cost a fraction more but by paying a little extra you could save yourself from being electrocuted, or causing the contacts in the fitting to corrode. This could lead to a short circuit and possibly a fire.

Question: Can I do the work myself or should I get an electrician in?

Answer


Firstly you should read " Part P - What is it? " as this will answer whether or not you can legally carry out the work you wish to do. Some people will always have a go, no matter what their level of competence is.

Electricity is dangerous and could kill you. I will always suggest to get an electrician in to do the work required, but if you are determined to do some electrics yourself please remember to be safe at all times and follow some basic safe isolation procedures before proceeding:

  • Locate / positively identify correct isolation point or device
  • Check condition of voltage indication device
  • Confirm that voltage indication device is functioning correctly
  • Switch off installation / circuit to be isolated
  • Verify with voltage indicating device that no voltage is present
  • Re-confirm that voltage indicating device functions correctly on known supply / proving unit
  • Lock-off or otherwise secure device used to isolate installation / circuit
  • Post warning notice(s)

Question: What is the best process from start to finish for actually fitting the Downlights?

Answer


  • Decide where you wish to place your chosen downlights measuring out the ceiling and marking the central point of the light. Now drill a small pilot hole through the ceiling.
  • Now you have marked out the positions of the downlights it is a good idea to check above the ceiling to ensure that there are no joists / wires / pipes in the way. You should be able to see a small pinprick of light coming through the ceiling where you drilled the pilot holes. If you are unable to view the ceiling from above it gets trickier. The best way is to determine which way the joists run and what the spacing of them are. You could then use an old wire coat hanger bent at a 900 angle to the width of the downlight. Insert the wire through the hole until the 900 bend is through. Now twist the wire a full 3600 and hopefully it will not bump into any obstructions.
  • In the instructions or on the box of the downlights it will say what the cut-out for that downlight will be. For the best results I will generally use a hole saw (a type of drill bit) to the correct size of the downlight which can be purchased very cheaply from most DIY stores. Alternatively the use of a plasterboard saw (Pad Saw) can be used which eliminates the need for a drill and hole saw. For this method you will need to draw a circle on the ceiling to the correct size as a guide for when you start to saw.
  • Hopefully now you have produced a clean cut hole in the ceiling, got the plaster out of your eyes and shaken yourself outside to stop you looking like Casper the ghost!
  • Once the wiring has been pulled through the hole the downlight can be wired. To fit the downlight into the hole hold the two springs back against the sides of the downlighter and push up into the hole. The springs then lie flat on the top of the ceiling holding it in place

Question: Do I need any special tools?

Answer


This all depends on what you have in your tool box already! Please see the below list of what tools I have used in the past for fitting downlights. Some of them you might not need but can often prove useful.
  • Chalk line
  • Tape measure
  • Pencil
  • Pad saw
  • Hand drill
  • Hole saw (type of drill bit)
  • Small drill bit for pilot hole
  • Screw drivers

Question: Can the existing lighting circuit support the extra light fittings?

Answer


Lighting circuits are usually on 6 amp circuit breakers often know as MCB’s (Miniature Circuit Breakers). To calculate how many Amps are loaded onto the lighting circuit a simple calculation is made. UK voltage is 230 volts, now assume that each light on the circuit is 100 watts, and you have got 12 lights on the circuit.

The calculation would be:

Total Watts ÷ Voltage = Amps

So taking the above information the calculation would be:

1200 watts ÷ 230 volts = 5.22 amps

So now we can see that the above described lighting circuit is using 5.22 amps meaning that the circuit breaker of 6 amps is not being overloaded.

Now to confuse things a little but very helpful on lighting circuits when you are wishing to add more lights. On lighting circuits once you have worked out the amps you can now apply a thing called Diversity, which for lighting circuits is 66% of the total load. So to work out this calculation we can do the following sum:

5.22amps ÷ 100 × 66 = 3.45 amps

So now we can see that we are able to add more lights to the circuit now that diversity has been applied to it.

Remember to carry out your calculations before you start any work!